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Day 9: Puyuhuapi to Queulat
Tuesday 11th, Oct. Still with the rain pouring outside I packed up my freshly cleaned clothes and said goodbye to my hosts. I was in no rush and not planning to go far so I went for a coffee in the only open cafe. Queulat National Park was 20km along the inlet and there was…
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Day 7 & 8: La Junta to Puyuhuapi
Sunday 9th & Monday 10th, Oct. I decided not to head to the coast but continue south instead. I wanted to get to Puyuhuapi for a rest day so started out early, optimistic about the 44km ride ahead. It turned out to be a much harder day than I anticipated. For the first time I…
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Day 6: Lago Yelcho to La Junta
Morning came and the fire got going straight away. The day was clearer with new peaks visible over the lake. I planned on leaving early and so got packing. I was keen to get to La Junta, a small crossroads town just under 100km away where I had thought of maybe cutting west to the…
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Day 5: Chaitén to Lago Yelcho
Friday, Oct 7th. A solid sleep and a slow morning. The rain never stopped through the night and didn’t look like it would any time soon. Our options were stay there for a long day in the room or head out and see where we got to. There were thermal springs along the way and…
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Day 4: Hornopíren to Chaitén
Thursday, Oct 6th After a sleep disturbed my howling packs of stray dogs I woke before dawn in the empty Refugio. I had met the only other occupant the night before, a stocky mechanic from the north walking through the dark hallway with bloody wounds on his nose and cheek. I pieced together he’d been…
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Day 3: Contao to Hornopíren
Wednesday, Oct 5th No rain today, at least not when I was riding. I slept a solid 8 hours in the smoky shack, disturbed only once by dogs barking outside. I’m not sure how many different ways I can pack the bike but I’m determined to find the best one. Weight balance, wet vs dry,…
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Day 2: Pelluco to Contao
Tues, Oct 4th. Misty forests, wet dogs, rain upon rain. I woke up early to the sound of rain on the roof. Still dark. Still too glad for the bed to leave it I turned over and went back to sleep. Daylight, and the rain had stopped but I took too long repacking to take…
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Day 1: Ancud to Pelluco
Monday, Oct 3rd. First day on the road, and an eventful one. It was up in the air whether I would leave today or delay due to the weather forecast but I woke up to a dry morning and it felt like a good time to go. I emptied out the room I’d been staying…
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Chil-hue, Chiloé, Chile
Tuesday, Sep 27 It begins today, I am writing about a bike ride. Up until now it has felt like a plan, one getting closer and closer, but still a plan with steps before it became reality. However today I woke up on Chiloé Island, where I last was three and a half years ago,…
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Austral Spring 