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Day 44 – 46 : Punta Arenas to Fin de Camino and back
Wednesday 16th – Friday 18th, Nov. I spent a day resting after the two long days from Puerto Natales, my only movement being cycling across town to the docks to book a ferry to Tierra del Fuego for the following Saturday. With the two days in between I’d decided to join Kaco, A Chilean cyclist…
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Day 42 & 43: Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas
Monday 14th & Tuesday 15th, Nov. I woke up early but didn’t get out of bed for at least another hour, my motivation still doused in gin from a distillery visit the night before. When I finally did get up it was to an empty guesthouse and a breakfast spread laid out on the downstairs…
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Day 36-41: Puerto Natales & Torres del Paine
Tuesday 8th – Sunday 13th, Nov. The evening I arrived in Puerto Natales I bumped into a backpacker from Sweden who I’d met on the boat, he was out with a group from his hostel so I joined them for dinner. Everyone there was at different stages of either preparing or returning from the treks…
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Day 34 & 35: Tortel to Puerto Natales on the Crux Australis
Sunday 6th & Monday 7th, Nov. I woke up early in the ship-length seating saloon. The long cabin was full of reclining seats and big windows, just comfortable enough to get some light sleep through the night. Up on the viewing deck the skies were overcast and they made the scenery a palette of greys,…
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Day 28-33: Parque Patagonia & Tortel Again
Monday 31st, Oct – Saturday 5th, Nov. A book I was reading gave me the burst of energy to hitchhike back towards Cochrane to hike in the Parque National Patagonia. Jack Kerouac’s The Dharma Bums and the conversations I’d had with people who’d been to the park was enough to inspire me to take my…
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Day 25-27: Tortel
Thursday 27th – Sunday 30th, Oct I had a good feeling about Tortel, it was a uniquely beautiful and quiet place to slow down after a month of movement. It was a shame to miss the border crossing at Villa O’Higgins and the national park at El Chaltén beyond but thinking ahead I could always…
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Day 24: Aruacaria Camp to Tortel
Wednesday, 26th Oct. That morning the first thoughts through my mind as I woke up were of how stupid it was to lose my phone like that. I beat myself up about it until I got out the tent in time to see the sun hit the tops of the back row of mountains. “If…
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Day 23: Cochrane to La Araucaria Camp
Tuesday, 25th Oct. Today was a wild one. I slept well in the the bunk-house Refugio in Patti’s garden campsite but still woke up stiff and aching from the roads the day before. On the advice of some Brazilian riders I’d met back neat Coyhaique I was preparing for at least three days without seeing…
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Day 22: Puerto Bertrand to Cochrane
Monday, 24th Oct. A clear morning on the riverbank. I took my breakfast down to the waters edge and watched the sunlight edging down the forest on the opposite side. The rapids crashed on and on and small clouds of mist shifted shape above the trees until a final dispersion by warmth of the sun. …
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Day 21: Puerto Río Tranquilo to Puerto Bertrand
Monday, 23rd Oct I left late out of Puerto Río Tranquilo, the rest day had done me good but some dark beers in the pub had not. I packed up slowly, enjoying the morning sun, aware that rain that was meant to be coming in from the south-west. By the time I got going the…
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Austral Spring 