Sunday 9th & Monday 10th, Oct.
I decided not to head to the coast but continue south instead. I wanted to get to Puyuhuapi for a rest day so started out early, optimistic about the 44km ride ahead. It turned out to be a much harder day than I anticipated. For the first time I felt fatigue, drained by the long day before my legs had little left in them and every small hill was a struggle so I took it slow.
As the route continued through farmland and along the next lake I was counting down the distance, checking my gps constantly for any upcoming inclines. I’d eaten a huge breakfast of last night’s left-over pasta and was snacking along the way but hunger was persistent. It was day 6 of riding and I was looking forward to a day without pedalling so when I finally arrived at the fjord-side town of Puyuhuapi I was relieved to find a cheap and warm room I could set up in for a couple of nights. The owner gave me the warmest room in the building, directly above the kitchen with the stove-pipe coming through the centre from floor to ceiling, giving me a heating column that stayed warm into the night. The small town looked set up to host crowds of tourists in the warmer months but it had not yet woken from the winter or the pandemic.
On the picturesque main road with gardens and fishing boats along the bay side, dogs lazed around in the streets and smoke rose from only a few chimneys. I walked a loop around the six-street grid and along the waterfront before making lunch by the old wood-oven that heated my room above. Silver kettles sat on top simmering all day. Monday was much of the same. I had planned on heading to hot springs and the national park but found that they are on the road south so I would be passing them anyway. Another couple of wanders up quiet streets between meals cooked up in the kitchen, with the owners talking to me as if I was fluent regardless of my fumbling replies.
Austral Spring 